Summary
"The Great Railway Bazaar" is Paul Theroux's chronicle of his epic train journey through Asia in the early 1970s. Departing from London's Victoria Station, Theroux embarks on a quest to experience the allure of railways, aiming to travel as far as Tokyo Central, exploring branch lines to Simla, the Khyber Pass, and Ceylon. His adventure is not just about reaching destinations but immersing himself in the 'bazaar' within the trains and the ever-changing landscapes outside.
The journey begins with the 15.30 from London to Paris, where Theroux encounters his first fellow traveler, the enigmatic Duffill, foreshadowing the diverse characters he will meet. Aboard the Direct-Orient Express, he shares cramped quarters and strained conversations, missing connections and philosophical debates, all while navigating the fading grandeur of a once-celebrated train. From France, Theroux ventures into the heart of Europe and beyond.
As the narrative unfolds, Theroux boards the Van Golu Express in Turkey, where he observes cultural clashes and navigates unexpected delays. In Iran, the Teheran Express leads him toward Afghanistan, where he confronts the challenges of a war-torn landscape. His path continues through Pakistan on the Khyber Pass Local, revealing the human stories amid political unrest.
The journey gains momentum on Indian railways as he takes the Kalka Mail for Simla and the Rajdhani Express to Bombay. These experiences lead him to the Grand Trunk Express and local trains toward Ceylon, where he explores the Talaimannar Mail. He explores Malaysia, and eventually reaching Vietnam. Encounters with eccentric passengers, vivid landscapes, and constant musings about the world shape his adventure.
His travels through Japan on the Hatsukari and Ozora Limited Expresses contrast starkly with the Trans-Siberian Express, which carries him across Russia to its terminus. Through each leg of his journey, Theroux weaves personal reflections with colorful anecdotes, capturing the essence of each region and the unique character of its railways. He completes the circle, changed by his experience, and bringing back a rich collection of stories from the railway bazaar that stretches across a continent.