Summary
In Neither Here Nor There, Bill Bryson recounts his journey across Europe, revisiting locations from his travels twenty years prior. Starting in Hammerfest, Norway, Bryson's quest to witness the Northern Lights is met with challenges, including an uncomfortable bus ride, language barriers, and the surprising absence of the aurora. He eventually sees a spectacular display of the Lights, only to find his onward travel delayed. His reflections on his first European trip in 1972, filled with youthful naiveté and misadventures with his friend Katz, contrast sharply with his present-day experiences.
From Oslo, Bryson's journey takes him through various European cities. In Paris, he navigates confusing pedestrian crossings and marvels at the beauty of the Île St-Louis. He revisits the Louvre, seeking a peculiar painting he remembers from his youth, and reflects on the changing politeness of Parisians. Brussels proves less captivating, despite its renowned cuisine. Bryson's travels through Belgium include a visit to the picturesque Bruges, a harrowing ankle injury in Durbuy, and an encounter with an unfriendly waitress in Spa. He reflects on his childhood memories of the Y Not Grill diner in Des Moines, a place of both fondness and frustration.
Bryson's journey continues through Germany, where he marvels at the Aachen Cathedral's treasury and observes the affluence of the region. Cologne leaves him underwhelmed, and a visit to a non-stop porno cinema in the station prompts him to leave for Amsterdam. In Amsterdam, he struggles to find a hotel room, reminisces about past misadventures with Katz, and finds the city oddly tiresome compared to his youthful memories. He visits the Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank House, and reflects on the Dutch tradition of tolerance. A new Holiday Inn on a historic street strikes him as a jarring example of architectural disregard.
From Hamburg, with its beautiful Alster lakes, Bryson travels by train and ferry to Copenhagen. He struggles to find a hotel, encounters a drug-addled teenager being helped by compassionate police officers, and admires the city's relaxed atmosphere. Museum visits and a stroll down the Strøget shopping street follow. A disappointing hotel bill and a frustrating encounter at the train station lead him to Sweden.
In Gothenburg and Stockholm, Bryson is met with rain and expensive meals. He finds solace in the beautiful Djurgården park in Stockholm but is ultimately disappointed by the city's litter and Sunday deadness. A frustrating encounter with pickpocketing children and an unhelpful police officer sours his impression of Florence. He is impressed by the Uffizi Gallery but finds the city overrun with tourists. The inefficiency and cost of Italian life, however, charm him in Rome, where he explores the city's sights and reflects on the Italian disregard for order and rules.
Naples shocks him with its squalor, prompting him to escape to Sorrento and Capri. The beauty of these towns captivates him, and he finds himself enchanted by Italian life. A brief return to Naples reinforces his negative impression, and he travels onward to Florence. His journey concludes in Istanbul, where the noise and crowds overwhelm him. He reflects on his travels and his desire to continue exploring, but ultimately decides it's time to return home to his family and the familiar comforts of England.